Black Swan at Oldsted

Young Yorkshire chef Tommy Banks took over the kitchen at his mum and dad’s village pub in 2013 when the previous head chef left. He hasn’t looked back. He has since transformed the pretty drovers’ inn into a bona fide dining destination, serving 12-course tasting menus based on produce foraged or grown locally. Semi self-taught but entirely self-motivated, Banks centers his dishes around vegetables, famously his Crapaudine beetroot cooked in beef fat. Those who don’t want to venture into the countryside can enjoy his cooking at, , Roots, opened in York in 2018.