Brat

Back in 2015, Tomos Parry, grill chef extraordinaire, made Mayfair’s Kitty Fisher’s the hottest restaurant in London. In 2018, he opened this Basque-inspired restaurant in Shoreditch, where he has worked similar magic. Carefully sourced ingredients are allowed to shine with minimal fuss. While gelatinous dayboat turbot, plaice with cockles and pil-pil, Herdwick lamb and a giant rib of Jersey beef are the star attractions, the charcoal grills and wood-fired oven leave their wonderfully smoky mark on everything from sourdough bread with burnt onion butter to peas.