Brawn

Ed Wilson’s energetic Columbia Road hangout treats food and wine with equal regard. His untrammeled enthusiasm for all things French and Italian shines out on the daily-changing menu bookended with perfectly kept charcuterie and cheese. His food’s a hymn of praise of the seasons: crab and calçots or duck liver, endive and walnuts in the winter, gazpacho, artichoke vinaigrette, and ricotta with peaches in the summer. The wine list is a roll call of cult natural producers.