Lyle’s

James Lowe’s Shoreditch restaurant is a primer in ‘“modern British’.”. Housed in an old tea factory (its concrete floors and steel-framed windows betray its origins), it’s spartan rather than luxurious, the better to set off the former St. John Bread and Wine chef’s rigorously sourced ingredients. Lunch means small plates such as romanesco broccoli, kipper butter and cured egg yolk or Badger Face mutton crumpet, black cabbage and anchovy. Dinner is a four- course prix fixe. French, Italian and Austrian wines predominate.