Ondine

Roy Brett’s Old Town address is what he calls a “proper seafood restaurant.” It’s a “no airs and graces” sort of place devoted to the enjoyment of sparkling fish and shellfish. Brett, who worked for Rick Stein in Padstow, lays on all the copper-bottomed classics: mussels mouclade, fish soup with rouille, dressed brown crab and crumpets, and tempura squid with Vietnamese dipping sauce. At the central oyster bar, there’s fun to be had tasting oysters from Cumbrae, Lindisfarne, Loch Fyne, etc.