Trattoria Sostanza

Open since 1869 and in the hands of the same family since 1977, Trattoria Sostanza has an ambience– the white marble counter from the 1930s, the tiled walls and the open kitchen – that seems preserved in time. Most people come here for the massive Florentine steaks cooked over embers, but it would be a mistake to focus only on the steak. The chicken breasts cooked in butter are famous in their own right, as is the tortino, a sort of omelet with very thin layers of egg and artichoke. A plate of fagioli, slowly stewed white beans, is mandatory.