Waterside Inn, The

This bastion of haute cuisine on the banks of the Thames in bucolic Bray opened its doors in 1972. Close to five decades later, it remains the home counties’ ‘special- occasion’ destination par excellence, helmed by Alain Roux, scion of the legendary Roux dynasty. The menu represents but the gentlest update of Gallic tradition: consider the signature, spit-roasted Challans duck with mandarin jus and chestnut choux buns, or lobster medallions with white port sauce.The cellar is exclusively, unapologetically all-French.